![]() ![]() Last week I tried a method I found in a scribing thread posted here a few months ago. No need for two men or a lift! (We build mostly Euro style cabs, but it works as long as you have a space at the ceiling to raise the cabs 3/8" or so.) This also adds extra screws supporting the cabinet, which aren't visible inside the cabinet. The slop between the 2 pieces allows for walls not being straight - sometimes we need to shim the wall piece when the walls are out a lot. The uppers will then hang on the cleat and you can slide them around until ready to fasten. We then install the same piece on the wall with the tongue up and away from the wall, continuous and level. We rabbet one edge 1/4" high X 1/2" deep we install 1 piece on the top back of uppers with the tongue down and away from the box. We use a version of a Z clip, which we make from 3/4" X 3 1/2" plywood. Check walls for plumb when measuring the job and that should tell you. ![]() It depends on the quality of work needed, I guess.ġ/2" scribe is usually plenty for lowers and uppers tall cabinets might need more. Not everybody scribes their cabinets - I have seen a lot of marginal work done by others. They are used for full height paneling and other applications. Z clips are generally used in commercial work, although residential sometimes requires this. The average scribe is 1/2", but surveying the walls is the best way to determine the overall scribe. Scribes for upper cabinets are generally used when it is high-end millwork. That way, when I draw the cabinet up tight to the wall, the knife-like edge of the 30-degree bevel actually cuts into the sheet rock for a "blackout" fit. I like to bevel my scribe cuts severely (30 degrees) and cut them "heavy". For high-end kitchens, these unusually out of plumb conditions were accommodated in the shop by providing extra scribe material on the cabinets or end panels. Refrigerator end panels and the like were usually sized an inch or so over, and scribed.ĭuring the first early walk-through for a kitchen, I'm always on the lookout for walls that are way out of plumb. The custom shops I installed for typically provided 1/2 an inch of extended scribe material on the back of the cabinet, and this worked in most cases. If it's production work, a scribe mold often is acceptable (the profile I use is most closely compared to door stop). It tends to be the higher end kitchens I install that get scribed to the walls. ![]() Does everyone scribe cabinet uppers and lowers to the wall? If yes, how much overhang do you need on the back of the cabinet? Do any of you use Z-clips to attach the cabinets? Does it help with scribing? ![]()
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